32 Winds & Mascarin Family Wines
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“I write how I talk. I write how I think.” –Billy Joel

If you’ve visited the Mayacama Bar and Grill recently, you may have noticed the giant vine mounted on the back wall. It’s from Ed and Mia Mascarin’s vineyard out on Dry Creek Road. As it happens, a few weeks ago, Ed and I got to talking about this and that, life and wine, and he mentioned they’d just ripped up one of their older vineyards on the Dry Creek property. He said they’d saved a few worthy vines and that I oughta go out there and see if there was one that was right for the Club.

I nodded politely, sipped the martini he’d been kind enough to provide, and promised to head out to the Mascarin Vineyard and check out the vines. I had absolutely no idea that we’d be able to get a vine of that magnitude—and believe me, I’ve walked a few rows in my day, even visiting other continents and hemispheres to check out vineyards. I don’t think I’ve ever come across a T-vine with a fourteen-foot wingspan before.

After a diligent search, I found the perfect one, and she was an absolute beaut! I got on the horn immediately with Scott Thayer and told him, “Hey, Scott, guess what? I found our next project.” So, on my next day off, we set out on a truck ride up 101 to Dry Creek Valley, and a leisurely cruise back down Old Redwood Highway—this time with eight feet of vine hanging out over the back of the tailgate. We got to work: two days of power washing, chiseling, sanding, scraping, and shellacking. I think she’s gorgeous, but take a look for yourself and toast her with a glass of Mascarin wine—that’s what Scott and I did.

2022 Estate Chardonnay, Mascarin, "Dayla," Sonoma Coast 

From a special little vineyard just off Route 116, on the border between Sebastopol and Forestville, planted by the Duttons and on, you guessed it, Wente Clone, comes the 2022 Dayla Estate Chardonnay. It's almost a bit shy at first—maybe because of the 50% concrete egg (you read that right—an egg-shaped concrete vessel) this wine is fermented in, or maybe it’s due to the contrast of the 1983 ZZ Top album Eliminator I’m blasting while tasting these wines. Either way, there’s a balance, much like the brash virtuoso guitar playing of Billy Gibbons.

You remember these guys—ZZ Top, with their sunglasses and matching chest-length beards, rocking their epic track “Sharp Dressed Man.” It made everyone want their MTV! It’s not just volume the Dayla Chardonnay brings, but precision and structure. Then there’s the oak chiming in—not just any oak, but large-format demi-muid (600L) barrels bringing gentler oak integration and slower micro-oxygenation, with a bit of toast.

Behind all of this is a tropical note of pineapple and clove sneaking in from behind the toast—an elegant contraband apple spice cake, served up by a dear friend upon Limoges china, as you wear matching “Cheap Sunglasses,” and all the while your teacups rattle from the bass of the 1979 smash hit of the same name. Yes, yes, I know “Cheap Sunglasses” is from a different album. Hooray for you and your knowledge of ZZ Top albums—you win an imaginary antique Limoges gout de ville porcelain cobalt-blue guitar pick.

2019 Pinot Noir, 32 Winds, Platt Vineyard, Sonoma Coast

The famed Platt Vineyard and 40% whole-cluster fermentation on this one bring a noticeable “BOMP!”—not quite Beaujolais-ish bubble-gum carbonic maceration, but the electric bassline of their ’80s hit, “Thug.” Short of playing the entire album, or while waiting for the third lion’s roar when syncing up Pink Floyd’s The Wall to The Wizard of Oz, you could just think of the melodious opening bop of television’s Law and Order—or even Seinfeld. I swear it’s there; it’s not just a twinge of synesthesia bleeding in.

Just try to play Air Bass without sticking out your lower lip—it’s impossible, I dare you to try it. Once you’ve spotted whole cluster, you’ll always know it—it’s unmistakable. So, if you’re thinking of microdosing whole cluster, start here first. Whole cluster ain’t for the faint of heart.

2022 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Mascarin, "Moonshine Ranch," Sonoma Coast

Whole cluster is when you don’t destem the grape bunch but put the entire bunch—stems and all—into maceration. I’m a whole-cluster fan—it’s true—and this one is 100% whole cluster. There are whole-cluster detractors out there (like my friend who brought over the apple spice cake), and I can see her point sometimes. It’s not the kind of thing you can do “just to do.” If the stems aren’t properly lignified, if the stars aren’t aligned, the process takes over, and all you’re left with is something, well, “stemmy.”

Done correctly, though, all of the structure and aromatics come into balance. Sometimes it takes time, sometimes experience, sometimes luck. This one, like ZZ Top itself, might be an acquired taste, but I can see where it’s going—and it’s only getting better: “The future’s so bright, I gotta wear shades.” Not a ZZ Top reference this time, but here’s hoping you get what I’m saying.

Thank you, as always, for your continued support of the Mayacama wine program. We’re incredibly excited to offer these exceptional wines to our Members, and I encourage you to reach out with any questions or requests—I’m always happy to chat wine.

Cheers!

Jared Hooper, Wine Director

WINES BEING OFFERED: (sold in 3-packs)

2022 Estate Chardonnay, Mascarin, "Dayla," Sonoma Coast ($180/3-pack)

2019 Pinot Noir, 32 Winds, Platt Vineyard, Sonoma Coast ($210/3-pack)

2022 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Mascarin, "Moonshine Ranch," Sonoma Coast ($210/3-pack)